Why do you say Pelivan you mean ice cream?

Why do you say Pelivan you mean ice cream?
May 29, 2018 Pelivan Beograd
In Mediji o nama

One of the best wrestlers of Serbia in the 19th century - Mustafa Pelivanović in Belgrade began a tradition of more than one and a half centuries, which survived two Serbian dynasties and communism, as well as several states.

If every businessman's dream of his descendants is to continue the business he has started, then the dream of Mustafa Pelivanovic has come true.

One of the best runners of Serbia in the mid-1900s, after winning a big contest, took advantage of prize money and opened a confectionery in the center of Belgrade, calling it "Pelivan", as they then called wrestlers who fought in special leather pants, oil.

167 years have passed since then, and the pastry shop is already the fifth generation in the hands of the same family, whose ancestor came from Belgrade from Zlipotok, villages in the Gora Mountains, to the Sar Mountain in Serbia. It has survived the dynasties of Obrenović and Karadjordjevic, communism, as well as several states in this region.

Today, the work is led by three Mustafini watchmen - Mussab, Bara and Suhaib Al-Shukeir.

The pastrz shop, says Mussab Al Shukeir, opened in 1851 on today's Square of the Republic, close to the National Museum of Serbia and the places where the National Theater will be built, not two decades later.

Ketering in the 19th Century

Cakes were bought at this place and they ran for 90 and 90s of booze and lemonade. She also worked as the forerunner of "ketering" - at the courtyard, which was nearby, was delivered by order. The job went well, so there were two other salads. The work went into the hands of Mustafi's son Mehmed, and then the grandson of Malić Pelivanovic, who was also a national deputy immediately after the First World War.

Malić had a job with his brother Aziro, who completely took over family business in the most unpleasant times - at the beginning of the Second World War.

In the April bombing of Belgrade in 1941, a pastry shop over the National Theater was also demolished. Azir is immediately located across the main post office, near the parliament building and continues to work at that location.

Plans for expanding businesses have stopped communist rule at the end of the war.

"My grandfathers took away the house in Slavia, which he had bought earlier, with the intention of opening another butler in the house, and he spent one time in jail," says his grandson, Mussab, for Al Jazeera.

Still, Azir was not discouraged by what had happened to the family. As soon as he finds himself in freedom, he goes to Italy from where he imported modern sweets and ice cream machines, and at that time he designed his own recipe for making ice cream, where the pastry shop became famous after the Second World War and still today . And that was not the only newspaper she had done.

The secret of family recipe

"For the first time ice cream was introduced in Serbia," Mussab Al-Shukeir said, explaining that his dad was a very valuable man.

The recipe continues to be kept in the family and according to Mussaba's words, it has been outdone with new trends.

The Syrian who came to Belgrade to be a doctor and returned as a pastry

Al-Shukeir's brothers took over family affairs after Mother's death and Father Ahmad's decision to return to Syria, where he remained a large part of the family.

Their father, in the eighties from Syria, came to Belgrade to study medicine, but when he met his future wife at the confectionary, he decided to replace the white mantle mantilla with the delightful.

"In Damascus, it has been for several years. We hear it regularly. That part of the family was tied to Syria and did not want to leave the country, "says Mussab.

According to him, his father used the return to Syria to complete studies in Arabic literature and theology, and then to do doctoral studies.

"We still use classic ice creams, such as milk and eggs, while at the beginning of this century we introduced the trend of making ice cream in Italian fashion - on a paste basis, and for several years there have been changes in the field and changes in raw materials which are used for ice cream, but we do not change our methodology, "says Mussab.

From the 1950s to the 1980s, a new "golden age" for the Pelivan cafeteria was launched.

"This is the time when you sold hundreds of pounds of ice cream per day and hundreds of liters of lemon and biscuit," Mussab said.

Many well-known personalities came from politicians from the nearby Assembly of Yugoslavia to actors. They say that Danilo Bata Stojkovic, Nikola Simić and Predrag Ejdus, who are still today, are among the most trusted buyers.

Those years were the day when the ice cream was waiting for the order, and from then on it is also anecdotal that Bata Stojković had ordered order, that is, he had the habit of returning to the minds of those who would try to come to their treats.

The Seathouse was taken from Azira by his daughter, Seija, who worried about her with the help of her husband Ahmad.

A piece of history with a bowl of ice cream

The youngest descendants of Mustafa Pelivanovic from this decade are family business. They have been studying for other professions, but family craft are still taught as children. The older Suhaib and Bara, like their ancestors, are making ice cream themselves, while the youngest Mussab is in charge of other jobs.

"Business does not go as it once did, but we managed to live it," says Mussab.

Although they do not have, along with the cafe "Znak questions", one of the oldest catering facilities in Belgrade, say appropriate treatment with state organizations that should promote buildings and firms that are already a part of the prestigious history. So, for example, unlike the mentioned cafe, which is mentioned on the site of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade (TOB) as one of the attractions of the capital, there is no "Pelivan" diner.

"It hurts me like that. Let's say, when a Chinese national television crew recorded a report about Belgrade, they recommended them from TOB to go to a confectionery that is only three years old. However, they were a little rocky and they found us on the internet and came to shoot something about us, "says Mussab Al-Shukeir.

On the other hand, on websites that promote Vienna, interested in traditional treats will easily find a recommendation for Demel and kaher Saher, whose tradition is more than 150 years old (both Saher torti known places).

The three brothers, however, do not give up on a job that has marked the lives of entire generations in their family and continue to serve a part of Belgrade's history with each ball of ice cream or baklava.

The current owners of a famous pastry shop, which has a tradition as long as the New York Times, do not forget either, and this year, as well as the previous birthday parties, they organized a free ice cream delivery but left a volunteer box for the NURDOR association, which helps kidney cancer.

Source: Al Jazeera / Milorad Vesić

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